Research
Important context: Many studies below are in vitro or oral-supplement trials; they’re included for mechanistic background. Where topical human data exist (e.g., colloidal oatmeal, plant oil barrier studies), those are called out.
Apricot (Prunus armeniaca) Kernel Oil
Shown to: lightweight emollient rich in oleic + linoleic acids; supports comfortable hydration and barrier lipids in leave-on moisturizers (composition/review + cosmetic safety).
Sources:
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9905367/
https://www.cir-safety.org/ingredient/prunus-armeniaca-apricot-kernel-oil
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/pdf/10.1177/1091581817740569
Beeswax (Cera Alba)
Occlusive/emollient; helps reduce TEWL and support barrier when used in moisturizers. PubMed
Beeswax-based topical systems decreased TEWL and increased stratum-corneum water content in vivo. PubMed
Black Currant (Ribes nigrum) Seed Oil
Shown to: deliver GLA and ALA with antioxidant activity; topical plant-oil literature supports moisturization and comfort; an older human study reported improvements in roughness after topical application (mixed evidence; composition + human).
Sources:
https://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/BF02549174
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4975646/
Black Spruce (Picea mariana) Essential Oil — aroma
Shown to: provide a coniferous monoterpene profile (e.g., α-pinene, β-pinene, bornyl acetate) used here for scent only; we do not attribute skincare benefits. (Composition data + supplier GC ranges for reference.)
Sources:
https://bioresources.cnr.ncsu.edu/resources/chemical-composition-of-essential-oil-and-hydrosol-from-picea-mariana-bark-residue/
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1080/02773818908050285
https://www.newdirectionsaromatics.com/oils/essential-oils/spruce-essential-oil-black
Cacay (Caryodendron orinocense) Seed Oil
Shown to: provide antioxidant vitamin E (tocopherols/tocotrienols), replenish lipids, and supply unsaturated fatty acids that support barrier comfort and smoother-looking skin (composition / in-vitro and review evidence).
Sources:
https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0237636
https://www.mdpi.com/2218-273X/13/8/1275
Calendula (Calendula officinalis)
Shown to: support a calmer-looking complexion and minor-irritation relief; recognized by the EMA for minor skin inflammation and wound-healing aid (traditional use). Evidence includes in-vitro/animal data and small clinicals; avoid medical claims.
Sources:
https://www.ema.europa.eu/en/medicines/herbal/calendulae-flos
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10142266/
https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/21688370.2021.1994822
Cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon) Seed Oil
Shown to: contain mixed tocopherols/tocotrienols and polyunsaturated fatty acids; antioxidant profile supports “collagen defense” positioning via protection from oxidative stress (reviews/composition).
Sources:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8704999/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10058722/
Daikon (Raphanus sativus) Seed Extract/Oil
Shown to: feature an atypical mix of C18–C22 fatty acids that gives a lightweight, fast-absorbing, silky feel comparable to esters/silicones; used to reduce greasy residue and improve dry-touch sensory (composition + industry data).
Sources:
https://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/cosmetic-ingredients/natural-sustainable/article/21835752/natural-plant-products-inc-daikon-seed-extract-a-unique-chemistry-for-hair-and-skin
https://meadowfoam.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/DSE_assessment_hair_effect_LTR_ENG_03062017.pdf
https://www.scielo.br/j/eagri/a/vtWHZHTQBRcFSh3GpdzKtjj/?lang=en
Echium (Echium plantagineum) Seed Oil
Shown to: deliver stearidonic acid (SDA) and gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), precursors involved in skin’s anti-inflammatory lipid mediators; plant oils with these profiles are associated with barrier support and reduced roughness/dryness (review / mechanistic).
Sources:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5796020/
https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0952327819303780
Hazelnut (Corylus avellana) Seed Oil
Shown to: act as an emollient, improving skin hydration and smoothness; virgin hazelnut oil in an emulsion increased moisturizing effect versus control in a controlled study; composition is rich in oleic acid and tocopherols (vitamin E).
Sources:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/19291034/
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC10255299/
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/full/10.1177/1091581817740569
High-Oleic Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) Seed Oil
Shown to: help maintain barrier integrity and improve hydration in adults when used topically (randomized forearm studies), while being generally well-tolerated on dry/sensitive skin.
Sources:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22995032/
https://www.loyon.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/Danby_2013.pdf
Hops (Humulus lupulus) CO₂ Extract (xanthohumol-rich)
Shown to: provide antioxidant and antimicrobial activity; topical hop extract demonstrated anti-inflammatory effects in a human UV-erythema model when formulated appropriately (vehicle-dependent).
Sources:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8951350/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6359372/
https://www.mdpi.com/1422-0067/25/22/11938
Meadowfoam (Limnanthes alba) Seed Oil
Shown to: supply exceptionally stable long-chain fatty acids/wax esters for a soft, non-greasy “dry-touch” finish and occlusive conditioning; widely used as a slip-enhancing emollient (composition + industry white paper).
Sources:
https://meadowfoam.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Assessment-of-Natural-and-Synthetic-Emollients.pdf
https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/abs/10.3181/00379727-133-34585
Oat (Avena sativa) — Colloidal Oat / Oat Lipids
Shown to: soothe visible redness/itch (avenanthramides), support barrier lipids and hydration, and improve dryness in clinical and mechanistic work (human RCTs and investigator-blinded studies; reviews).
Sources:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7103792/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27272074/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6126071/
Orange Peel Wax (Citrus aurantium dulcis (Orange) Peel Cera)
Shown to: act as a film-forming, skin-conditioning wax in cosmetics; wax films are widely documented to reduce water loss across surfaces (food/produce models), supporting our “light protective seal” positioning on skin.
Sources:
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/cpeels092016final.pdf
https://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient/citrus-aurantium-dulcis-orange-peel-wax/
https://incidecoder.com/ingredients/citrus-aurantium-dulcis-peel-cera
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6145248/
Red Raspberry (Rubus idaeus) Seed Oil
Shown to: provide high tocopherols/tocotrienols and polyunsaturated fatty acids with antioxidant activity; exhibits barrier-supportive, moisturizing, and soothing potential in cosmetic use (reviews; composition; early human/single-application data).
Sources:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC8151122/
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10386361/
https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/10/6/169
Rice Starch (Oryza sativa) — in Balms
Shown to: help comfort and support barrier function as a bath/additive in controlled settings, with reduced TEWL in irritated and atopic skin; used in balms for matte feel and soothing (do not imply drug claims).
Sources:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12353708/
https://medicaljournalssweden.se/actadv/article/download/13712/17445
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC10801494/
Roman Chamomile / α-Bisabolol
Shown to: soothe and reduce the appearance of redness via anti-inflammatory pathways; α-bisabolol is documented as a skin-conditioning, anti-irritant component with good dermal tolerability (in-vitro/animal + safety review).
Sources:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9002489/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/24894548/
https://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/bisabolol.pdf
Sea Buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) Seed/Pulp Oil (CO₂)
Shown to: provide antioxidant carotenoids and fatty acids; in-vitro/animal and limited clinical contexts show antioxidant and soothing effects and support for hydrated, healthier-looking skin (evidence type noted).
Sources:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6162715/
https://karger.com/spp/article/30/5/268/295865/Sea-Buckthorn-Hippophae-rhamnoides-L-Oil-Improves
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5796020/
Vitamin E (mixed tocopherols)
Shown to: act as an antioxidant that helps defend lipids/collagen from oxidative stress and improve the look/feel of dry, irritated skin (reviews).
Sources:
https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4976416/
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22507031/
Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) Extract
Shown to: provide antioxidant/soothing activity; in a double-blind, split-face clinical (2% extract, 2 months) improved the appearance of wrinkles and pores versus placebo; broader reviews support cosmetic relevance of Achillea species.
Sources:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21711463/
https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC8018854/
Beeswax (Cera alba)
Creates an occlusive layer that helps minimize the evaporation of moisture from the skin, also known as transepidermal water loss
Works as a humectant to draw moisture into the skin
Locks in hydration
Softens and soothes the skin
Eases inflammatory symptoms associated with certain skin diseases like atopic dermatitis or contact irritant dermatitis
What is Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL)? | Skinceuticals Australia.
Black Currant Seed Oil (Ribes nigrum) - Clinically-studied omega oil rich in GLA that supports natural barrier repair and promotes skin hydration through essential fatty acid replenishment.
Sources: BLACK CURRANT: Overview, Uses, Side Effects, Precautions, Interactions, Dosing and Reviews
Black currant seed oil can boost your skin's natural barrier